Diamond Shapes,
Drawn to Scale

Round Brilliant

The 58-facet round brilliant is engineered for maximum light return. When cut to Excellent grade, it outperforms every other shape on raw brilliance. It is also the easiest to set, the most widely available, and the most straightforward to compare across jewellers. The premium: rounds carry a cut premium over fancy shapes. Expect to pay 10–15% more per carat versus an oval of equivalent grade.

Oval

An oval of 1ct typically shows more surface area than a round of 1ct, because more of its weight sits in the face-up plane rather than depth. It elongates the finger significantly. Watch for: the "bow-tie effect", a dark shadow across the centre of some ovals caused by light leakage. Always view in normal light before buying, not just under a jeweller's spotlight.

Cushion

A softer, more romantic shape that sits lower on the finger than a round. Cushions come in two variants: standard (more sparkle, larger facets) and modified cushion brilliant (crushed-ice look, very popular). Best in: halo settings, vintage-inspired designs, and yellow gold. Slightly smaller face-up than round at equal carat weight.

Emerald Cut

The step-cut facets of an emerald create long flashes of light rather than sparkle, a fundamentally different look from brilliant-cut stones. The trade-off is that inclusions are more visible, so clarity grade matters more here than in any other shape. Buy at: VS2 minimum, ideally VS1. The result, when the stone is clean, is extraordinarily elegant.

Pear

One of the most elongating shapes on the finger. Traditionally worn with the point facing the nail; some wear it pointing toward the hand. Both are correct. Symmetry matters: the two sides of the curved end should be mirror images. An asymmetric pear is noticeable and undesirable. Check the outline carefully before buying.

Marquise

The longest shape in the standard repertoire, and the one that creates the most dramatic elongation on the finger. Face-up coverage per carat is the highest of any common shape. The caveat: the pointed tips are structurally vulnerable and need to be set in protective V-shaped prongs. Also susceptible to the bow-tie effect. Inspect in normal light.